The days here start early. At 4am, the docks of Lan Ma Daw jetty in are already bustling with people, from blurry-eyed students to laborers unloading basket-loads of food. It is a setting that has remained unchanged for decades, one that might shift with the recent turn of ’s political and economic isolation.

For now, the docks seem to paint a picture of ’s lower- to middle-class society. All walks of life converge here. One of the boatmen, a man named Khin Maung Than, describes his feelings about the community using a saying, which loosely translates to: “Die not different, live not separate.” He will continue to work as long as the jetty is here. “It’s the only profession I know,” he says.

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